Secret Spot with Happy Sager
Calling this zone a secret spot is one heck of a tall tale, but if you wait for the right combination of blustery, onshore winds and short interval wind swell, it sure feels like it could be. One thing I’ve noticed in shooting thousands of sessions over the years, is that the surfers you’re with is often more important that the actual waves breaking out the back. While I can definitely recall occasions with stellar surf, my favorite memories often include conditions that fall well short of perfection. Despite wind gusts strong enough to take down a sturdy tripod, Happy and Jude Sager suited up and got out there without giving it another thought. Unaffected by the river-like currents forcing them to make multiple beach runs, a thousand closeouts, a bunch of waves that would simply disappear, and even a broken leash, the pair split funky peaks all afternoon and left the beach with yet more proof that it is always worth paddling out. There’s always something new to learn and experience in the ocean and I’m really stoked to see the going-out-no-matter-what ethos is alive and well with this sister and brother crew. Stoked on this secret spot session—can’t wait for the next one!
If you’d like to follow along with Happy’s surfing, open ocean paddling, and diving adventures, give her a follow at @yesmynameishappy . Anyone who supports women’s surfing deserves a shout out, too, so a big thank you to Happy’s sponsors, @roarkwomens @watergroms @nixon @teambkinc @editsurfboards @jackssurfboards @leus @electric @rangeessentials and @jangawetsuits .
To see what Jude is up to with his surfing, skating, and artwork, follow him at @jude.sager .
Chris Grant